Pesan dari EO,
- Mohon kesediaan klub untuk menyebarkan undangan untuk menghadiri Beauty Contest (lomba modifikasi, safety ride)
- Untuk bro dari Bikers Magz, silahkan meliput, disana ada pos infokom utuk para media.

Technical Meeting :
Dimohon untuk kehadirannya.
Rabu, 16 April 2008
Jam. 20.00 di Mid Point Café, sebrang Mesjid Al bina, Senayan
Peserta : Perwakilan/PIC dari masing masing sukarelawan

Sukarelawan Aksi ‘real’ Sosial Bikers
1. KCDj – 5 Orang
2. BARAC – 5 Orang
3. EMC – 5 orang
4. YMCI BKS – 5 orang
5. KHCC – 5 orang
6. TYN – 5 orang
7. HSJ – 5 Orang
8. Mas Djoko – perorangan
9. Edy Caplang – Perorangan
10. Mellanie – perorangan
11. YJOC – 5 orang

Karena YJOC dihadapkan dengan kesibukan untuk Munas, maka YJOC mengundurkan diri dari kepesertaan. Kuota akan kita bahas lagi pada meeting besok.
Mohon kesediaan Dewan Presidium untuk melanjutkan pesan meeting ini via SMS ke rekan2 lainnya.

Terima kasih.

Collision with less forgiving protective barriers, or badly placed roadside “furniture” (lampposts, signs, fences etc.) This is often simply a result of poor road design, and can be engineered out to a large degree. Note that when one falls off a motorcycle in the middle of a curve, lamps and signs create a “wall” of sorts with little chance to avoid slamming against a pole.
Concussion and brain damage, as the head violently contacts other vehicles or objects. This risk is massively reduced by wearing properly fitting, standards-approved head protection.
Breakage of joints (elbows, shoulders, hips, knees and wrists), fingers, spine and neck, for the same reason. The most common breakages are the shoulder and the pelvis.
Soft tissue (skin and muscle) damage (road rash) as the body slides across the surface at speed. This can be prevented entirely with the proper use of motorcycle-specific protective apparel such as a leather jacket or reinforced denim and textile pants. There is also a condition known as biker’s arm, where the nerves in the upper arm are damaged during the fall, causing a permanent paralysis of arm movement.
Facial disfigurement, if in the absence of a full-face helmet, the unprotected face slides across the ground. Note though that this is in fact quite a rare occurrence.
The Hurt Report also commented on injuries after an accident:

The likelihood of injury is extremely high in these motorcycle accidents-98% of the multiple vehicle collisions and 96% of the single vehicle accidents resulted in some kind of injury to the motorcycle rider; 45% resulted in more than a minor injury.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_safety

Trail bike riders wear a range of plastic armour to protect against injury from falling off, hitting other riders and bikes, debris kicked up from the rear wheel of leading bikes, and from running into track barriers protecting the public. This armour protects the extremities from breakage and dislocation and the back and chest from strain and broken bones. Although fairly efficient, it is of course not always completely effective. Many riders wear “roost protectors” designed specifically to protect against painful debris from other bikes, but are of no use in a fall or collision.

Leathers
The term “motorcycle leathers” describes leather clothing worn by motorcyclists. Leathers provide impact, puncture and abrasion protection to a rider who falls from his bike, and provide additional weather protection beyond what normal clothing offers when travelling at speed. The most common leather used for motorcycle apparel is cowhide, known for its strength and durability. Kangaroo leather is becoming popular for its suppleness, light weight and strength compared with cowhide.

Originally, motorcycle leathers were adapted from tank corps gear immediately following World War I. Duster coats, which tended to catch in the wheels, were switched for short coats. Wide-pegged breeches were worn by some motorcycle police (and are still worn in Belgium) and by dispatch riders in World War II, but were largely abandoned in the post-war years because of their association with certain Nazi uniforms.

Currently there are two major styles of motorcycle leathers: the tight fitting and sometimes colorful one or two piece suits based on motorcycle racing leathers; and the somewhat looser fitting leather trousers and jackets, usually black and often decorated with metal studs and tassles. The latter style, the jackets in particular, are also worn by people who are fond of the style but do not ride motorcycles. The classic American Perfecto motorcycle jacket with epaulets and diagonal zipper, made famous by Marlon Brando in The Wild One, (1954) was invented in 1928 by Irving Schott, of Schott NYC in New York City. Leather chaps, adapted from cowboy gear, were used by American bikers starting in the early 1960s.

A lot of modern leathers have armour on the inside at critical impact points such as elbows, shoulders, knees and the spine. The armour ranges from high density foam to foam backed hard armour, and in Europe much of it is CE marked. It is designed to spread the impact point to minimize injury.

Textile clothing
Increasingly, motorcyclists are choosing protective equipment constructed of man-made textiles rather than leather due to their improved weather protection, from heat, cold and water, and the increased utility these garments tend to provide in terms of pockets and vents. Common materials include high density (600 – 1000 Denier) ballistic nylon (e.g., Cordura) and Kevlar (or blends of Kevlar, Cordura, and Lycra) and often include waterproof liners made from materials such as Goretex. These artificial fabrics are said by some motorcyclists to be more comfortable, particularly in warm weather. The textile garments typically take less time to dry out, whereas leather gear may remain wet (and cold) for some time.

Textile protective clothing is also nearly always worn over ordinary clothing, whereas leather suits—particularly those manufactured for racing—are not. In addition, synthetic fabrics generally provide better protection from inclement weather. For these reasons, synthetics are often practical for commuters and can help make motorcycles an attractive alternative to four wheeled vehicles.

Not all textile clothing is made from synthetic materials. Heavy weight waxed cotton was used for many years before the development of modern materials, typified by the jackets made by companies such as Belstaff.

Performance claims range for textile motorcycle clothing from somewhat less to somewhat better than competition grade leathers. Key elements of performance include:

strength – the protective clothing must maintain its integrity in the event of a crash
abrasion resistance
ability to slide instead of grabbing tarmac or concrete (grabbing would tumble the rider, likely resulting in greater injury)
heat resistance – whilst sliding the friction with the road can result in enough heat to melt many synthetic materials
ability to stretch and breathe (for comfort).
Additional protection may be provided by armour (CE approved is desirable) and airbag systems.

Proper fit
Whatever materials one chooses for one’s motorcycle gear, it is important to get the correct fit when purchasing it. Incorrectly fitted garments may result in excessive injury if armour shifts out of position during a riding mishap. Flapping due to too loose a fit also creates unnecessary wear and tear, wind drag, and noise, and can distract the rider. In the event of a fall, loose garments may grab the road surface, resulting in a tumble rather than a slide. Two piece suits often come with zips to join the jacket and trousers/jeans together, thus improving safety in the event of a crash.

Boots
Main article: Motorcycle boots
Motorcycle boots are a type of protective footwear used by motorcycle riders designed to protect a rider’s feet and legs while riding and in the event of an accident.

Helmet
Main article: Motorcycle helmet
A motorcycle helmet is a type of protective headgear used by motorcycle riders. The primary goal of a motorcycle helmet is to protect the rider’s head during impact, although many helmets provide additional conveniences, such as face shields, ear protection, etc.

Lethal Or Life Saving – A ‘Cause’ Or ‘Extremism’?

By James R. Davis

So that there are no misunderstandings, here are a few of the things that I believe to be true relative to motorcycle helmets:

	More lives have been saved than lost because of wearing helmets.
	More injuries have been minimized than exaggerated because of wearing helmets.
	More injuries have been totally avoided than caused because of wearing helmets.
	Wearing helmets (as opposed to laws that require you to do so) is NOT a civil rights issue – it is a safety issue, period!
	Motorcyclists that join lobbying efforts (adopting a ’cause’) to ban helmet laws tend to smear the image of motorcyclists in general with the public, tend to preach from an extremist’s pulpit, and tend never to have had a family member survive unhurt (or un-dead) from a motorcycle accident because of wearing a helmet.
	Whether it is a law or not, you always have the ability to decide to ride without one. The consequences can include having a safe and uneventful ride, getting a ticket, getting a bump on the head, losing your jaw or nose or ear or eye, getting a neck injury, or death. If you ride with a helmet the consequences can range just as wide with the exception that your ODDS of getting a ticket, getting a bump on your head, losing part of your face, getting a neck injury, or dying are diminished. You have that choice, law or not.
	There are valid concerns about helmets such as:

If you are injured while wearing one it is likely to be cervical in nature – meaning that there is the possibility that helmets tend to shift injuries away from the skull and towards the neck (or that the helmets are doing their jobs which does NOT include protecting the neck.). 

	They are not as effective in injury/death protection as they could be (but who would/could wear a deep-sea ‘bucket’ weighing 40 pounds?)
	Some people believe they are so safe while wearing them that they take larger risks than without – thus inviting trouble.

By James R. Davis

Of all the things that we learn being out on the streets with our bikes, one stands out as the all time life-saver in my book.

If you can avoid it, never enter an intersection without another vehicle on your right side.

(It should be noted that this advice assumes you ride in a country where people drive on the right side of the road.)

While I believe it is true that at least the California Highway Patrol requires their motorcycle officers to use the right side to both mount and dismount their machines, that is hardly an example one should draw heavy conclusions from. It may suggest that if you pull to the side of a freeway and want to dismount you might be safer getting on and off on the right side based on traffic risk, but that does not infer that it is generally safer to do so.

Your side stand provides a WIDE tripod footprint (unlike your center stand) that virtually guarantees your bike will not fall over if you lean against it. (This, by the way, is why it is far safer to leave your bike on its side stand than it is to put it on its center stand in a storm.) You would court dumping the bike if it was not LEANING heavily on its side stand when you mounted it (as when the bike is parked on a slope to the right.) Similarly, mounting from the right tends to relieve pressure from the side stand unless you ‘hop’ onto your left foot before your fanny hits the seat. Worse, your right foot is planted firmly on the ground when you do that and if the bike were to fall over you could not get away from it.

This is not a challenge of the motorcycle police. But they are hardly the best role models for most of us. Consider that despite the fact that full-face helmets are demonstrably safer than 3/4 or smaller shells, there is not a single motorcycle policeman in the entire country that wears one. Also please observe that keeping two hands on the grips is obviously safer than riding with only one in control. This is why those of us with CB’s have a PTT button within reach of a finger on the left hand without removing that hand from the grip. Yet some of our motorcycle police still use a hand microphone. (I’m told that in California – and probably most everywhere else – most motorcycle police officers now use helmet mounted microphones and conventional left-thumb activated PTT switches – their helmet cords disconnect easily as they leave their bikes.)

The answer to these apparently less safe practices of our motorcycle officers is that they have different risks to manage than we street riders do. They do not want to lose visual contact with a suspect for the brief time it takes to remove a full-face helmet (nor do they want to occupy both hands taking a helmet off.) They must often leave their bikes FAST and a microphone/speaker cord going to their helmets could cost them their lives if they had to deal with them at a vulnerable time. They tend to work busy freeways and mount/dismount their bikes frequently at the side of the road. (And, of course, they mount and dismount on the right to put their bikes between themselves and a possible bullet from the driver of the car in front of them.)

All I’m saying is that suggesting that a motorcycle officer be used as a role model for how to behave on your street machine is a bad choice. It is clearly safer (except, perhaps, on the side of a freeway) to mount and dismount your bike from the left. It is safer to ride with a full-face helmet than a smaller shell. It is safer to use a built-in microphone than a hand-held.

But then again, it is safer not being a motorcycle officer in any event.

Editor’s Note: This is Part Four in a series of safety articles by Mark Yager. A long-time motorcycle enthusiast, Mark is currently an instructor at the Canada Safety Council.

Adverse Weather Riding Gear

September. Get the kids back to school, pay off the Visa from that annual vacation, watch the Christmas marketing arise, and put the bike away until next May. What?!If you have been around the motorcycle world for any length of time, you have probably found that there are two types of riders when it comes to dealing with the weather. Those who ride during the summer and those of us who ride year-round. Riding for twelve months of the year is not possible in all areas of North America or the world, but I happen to live in a place where the bike goes off the road around December 20 and back on about January 5. Regardless of how long your riding season is, you must be prepared for inclememt weather when you ride. Proper cold weather gear is absolutely essential if you want to stay warm and dry (and therefore safe!).

Undergarments

Let’s start from the inside and work out. In dressing for cold weather, begin with long undies. Make sure you get a set that is long enough in the torso and legs so that they don’t ride up when you bend over to grab the bars — that leads to the dreaded cold-draft-up-the-back syndrome. Next, a long sleeve shirt and warm pants. Of course, don’t forget warm socks. It’s very easy to forget about your feet until they freeze. Now we come to one of the best inventions in the world of motorcycling next to front brakes. That is, of course, the electric vest. For those of you who have never worn one, an electric vest is a lightly quilted vest that plugs into your bike’s electrical system. The better models have a rheostat that controls the amount of heat produced by the vest as well as an on/off switch. They usually cost around $100 and are worth every penny. The only time I ride without my vest is on the sunny summer days. All other times, I have it with me, just in case. Some manufacturers also have vests that have a high collar so your neck won’t get cold. Electric chaps are also available, as are electric handlebar grips.

Jackets

The next level of protection is a good jacket. A high quality, comfortable jacket is one of the most sought-after accessories for any experienced motorcyclist. We put a lot of demands on our jackets, and the manufacturers have caught on to this fact by responding with a versatile product line that does more than just cover. If you can only afford one, pick a jacket that is, above all, tough. If you go down, something is going to have to be sacrificed to the pavement, and it may as well be some other hide than your own. Jackets must also be comfortable. When trying one on, make sure you sit on your bike with it on before deciding whether it fits or not. Be careful that the jacket is long enough in the torso and the arms. A jacket that is too thin or bulky will flap and balloon in the wind which will make you tired and reduce your body’s ability to keep you warm. The best jackets have a zip-out quilted lining for winter, and venting for summer. Also look for a high collar that will keep the wind out of your neck area, and ensure the collar snaps or zips up all the way to the top. Little features are important, too. Things like double cuffs so wind doesn’t get up around your wrists, and a good wind-flap over the main zipper.A very good alternative is an Aerostitch suit. These are one or two piece suits that are made out of cordura nylon. These are probably the best suits built for motorcyclists. The one piece will run you around $640 and the two piece around $680 (US). They feature at least a dozen removable T- foam armour pads, lots of sizes at at least 15 colours. Get one if you can afford one, if not then buy a good leather jacket. If you can’t afford leather, then don’t ride until you can.

Pants

Insulated pants or chaps are a very good investment if you do any sort of cool weather riding. There are a few of the non-electric species around. The better ones are made of cordura nylon, and are usually coated to be rain resistant (not usually water proof). They are easy to get on and off, are comfortable, and won’t leave you with cold legs. These also function as added abrasion protection.

Gloves

These are another of the absolute essential items every rider must have. Gloves can be split into two basic categories, summer and winter. Summer gloves are the leather, uninsulated type to protect your hands from abrasion should you fall. Winter gloves must provide that protection as well as protect against cold and rain. Winter gloves must be insulated with Dupont Thinsulate ® or some other material. Don’t buy gloves that are too bulky in the palm lest you lose the feel of the bike and its controls. Make sure that your gloves have long gauntlet type cuffs that will fit over your jacket sleeves to ensure no wind gets up your arms. Most winter gloves are at least water resistant. Some have a little zip-up compartment in the cuff area which houses a waterproof cover should you get cought in a sudden downpour. Get gloves that have a felt strip on the index finger on the left hand. This allows you to wipe water from your visor without scratching it. As with all gloves, summer or winter, make sure that there are no rough seams in the palm area. If you ride for a couple hours with a seam between your hand and the grip, you’ll feel it.

Tricks and Tips

One article I am never without is something to protect my neck from the cold. Whether it’s a commercial or home-made model, a lot of riders consider it an essential piece of cold weather riding equipment. The simplest kinds are a felt type material cut into a bandanna shape where the ends connect together at the back of your neck. This keeps wind from coming in and going up your helmet or down your jacket. Some of the more elaborate models actually fasten onto the bottom of your helmet and form a seal from your helmet to your chest. Very effective. Balaclavas can be also very nice. You can buy them in silk or numerous synthetic materials. They are like hoods that pull over your head and extend to your chest. When buying a neck insulator, ensure that it has enough material to reach to your chest, or else it’ll come untucked from your collar when you shoulder check or look up.

Emergencies

The best way to handle any kind of emergency is not to let it happen in the first place. Of course, that’s not always possible, especially if you live in a place with mountains where the weather can change every mile or so. It is extremely important to keep warm. When your body decides that it’s cold, the blood starts getting divereted away from the surface of your body and towards the vital organs. As the cold worsens, the body will start to shut down some of the functions that it deems non-essential. One of the first things to get axed is the judgement functions. Eventually, you can’t move your fingers and toes and your mind is operating on autopilot. Obviously a very dangerous situation for any motorcyclist. If you find yourself getting cold, stop at the next available pull-out. If this happens to be a restaurant, great. Take some time and warm up. Don’t just inhale a cup of coffee and think that’s good enough. Have something to eat to give your body some energy so it can keep itself warm. If it’s getting on the cold side but really isn’t that bad yet, take some preventative medicine. Buy a newspaper and spread it out in layers between your jacket and sweater. It’ll make a very effective wind block, though it has very little insulation value. If you can keep your torso warm, it will help keep the rest of you warm as your blood can warm up in your chest every time it circulates before going back to the colder extremities.Above all, think about what you are doing. Is it worth the risk to your life to get to your destination on time? Plan ahead. Consider the conditions you will may be riding in. Use the worst case scenario (what’s the worst weather I might encounter) and dress for that. You can always remove some layers later, or add some if you brought them. Take it from us, buy the best. The best equipment will be safer, last longer, look better, and will be more comfortable than a similar article of dubious manufacture.

Resources – This is an assortment of various sources for some of the gear mentioned above. There are many more distributors of riding equipment than this. Visit a reputable dealer in your area for more information.

• Aerostich Riderwear – Free catalogue call 1-800-222-1994 or write to
  
  Aerostich Riderwear, 8 South 18th Ave. West, Duluth, MN 55806.
• Jackets and gloves – Roadgear: call 24hrs 1-800-854-4327 for free catalogue. Also Vent-Tech at 1-800-331-8408 for free catalogue.
• Insulated pants/chaps- Maveric Mt., Inc at 1-800-822-4212 for information.
• Widder ‘Lectric Heat (vests, etc.)- For info call 1-800-WYBCOLD in the US, (805)640-1295 outside US.

By James R. Davis

And, with the colder weather the odds are that many of you have begun wearing leather chaps and heavier jackets. Though pretty expensive, there’s ample proof that these provide far more than protection from the cold.In studies of ’survivability’ of various garment materials to a 50 MPH ride on asphalt, for example, denim lasted no more than FOUR FEET before wearing through. Kevlar, on the other hand, lasted EIGHTEEN FEET. But standard motorcycle quality (about three times heavier than fashion jacket material) lasted EIGHTY-SIX FEET. That’s more than 20 times as effective as your jeans in protecting your hide.[The tests were reported in the September 1988 issue of Cycle magazine.]

Editor’s Note: This is Part Two in a series of safety articles by Mark Yager. A long-time motorcycle enthusiast, Mark is currently an instructor at the Canada Safety Council.

Steering a motorcycle is fairly straightforward, right? It may seem that way, but as you turn for a corner there are a lot more things happening than you probably realize. Being able to turn your bike aggressively and avoid running into that car that just pulled out in front of you largely depends on what you know about these mysterious forces. Read on….

Physics 101

Above a speed of about 20 to 30 km/h (15-20 mph), the motorcycle’s wheels act like gyroscopes. These spinning masses of wheel and tire combine to create a gyroscopic force — if you’ve ever held a spinning bicycle wheel in your hand and felt how difficult it is to “steer” it, you’ll understand. So how do we overcome this force to get our bike to turn?

We don’t.

Use the Force…

If you’ve ever played with a gyroscope, you’ll remember that pushing forward on the left end of the axle didn’t result in the wheel turning to the right. Instead, thanks to a force called gyroscopic precession which redirects the force 90 degrees in the direction of rotation, the wheel actually leaned to the left, rotating on an axis around the center of the wheel. Your motorcycle works the same way. By turning the handlebars to the right, you are effectively inputting the same force we used in our example. Trying to push the spinning wheel to the right causes the wheel, and the rest of the bike attached to it, to lean to the left. This is called counter-steering. Turn the bars right, and you lean left. It is the only way a motorcycle steers at any speed above walking speeds. Those of you saying “No way, dude, I never do it that way,” are wrong. And this is why so many motorcyclists actually steer into and accident — they try and turn right to avoid an incident by turning the front wheel to point to the right. This, in turn, steers them left, straight into the accident. So whether you realize it or not, you are doing “it,” better known as counter-steering.

When the bike is at a desired lean angle, ease up on the bars, and the bike will remain there assuming the tire profiles aren’t working against the bike and trying to stand it up. If you let up on the throttle, the bike will turn in, and conversely, adding throttle will make the bike run wider. To straighten the bike back up, add a smooth combination of throttle and reverse steering input. If you are in a left hand turn, turn the bars farther to the left, and the bike will stand up.

Some people ask how hard to push. Please understand that this is not a sharp jab at the bar. It is a smooth, steady pressure with the key word being smooth. The higher the speed at which the bike is traveling, the more gyroscopic effect there is, therefore you will need to push harder. This is why road racers work on upper body strength so much.

Why Counter-Steering?

Again, we cannot stress this point enough: Imagine yourself cruising down the highway on a beautiful spring day. Suddenly you see (insert your worst nightmare here) in the road, covering the right two-thirds of your lane. If you do not consciously understand and use counter-steering, you will probably push on the right bar in an attempt to steer left like you would on a slow moving bicycle or in a car where you steer left to go left. Pushing on the right will steer you directly into the object. The correct action here would be to push on the left bar and steer away from the obstacle. So remember: “Push left, turn left. Push right, turn right.” Repeat this to yourself over and over while you ride. Once you get the hang of it, counter-steering will become instinctive — your body probably knows how to do it, it’s just your mind that is lagging. Understanding the principles behind counter-steering will make you smoother and give you a better feeling of control over your environment. It may also save your life. Like any safety technique, it only works if you practice it. Unless the action is second nature, you will return to your old habits during an emergency. So, practice, practice, practice.